Best Vegetable Garden Fencing to Keep Out Critters

Rabbits, deer, groundhogs, and raccoons can dismantle a vegetable garden faster than any disease — which is why fencing is the most important non-plant purchase most gardeners make. The right fence is sized to the pest: a 2-foot fence stops rabbits, but deer need 6 to 8 feet, and burrowing critters need the fence buried or bent outward at the base. Below are the fencing options we recommend, based on mesh size, durability, and consistent owner feedback.

At a Glance: Our Top Picks

• Best all-around: welded wire fencing (YARDGARD or similar) — 1-inch or 2-inch mesh that stops rabbits and most medium pests for years.
• Best for burrowers: 1/2-inch hardware cloth (Fencer Wire) — the gold standard for keeping out small chewing pests and digging animals.
• Best for deer: VEVOR deer fence or similar tall netting — 6 to 8 feet of visible, effective barrier.
• Best budget: plastic or metal garden netting for quick, seasonal protection around beds.

Match the Fence to the Pest

• Rabbits: need 2 to 3 feet of fence with mesh no larger than 1 inch, and the bottom edge secured to the ground.
• Groundhogs and woodchucks: dig under fences — bury the bottom 6 to 12 inches or lay it flat outward on the soil surface, then anchor it.
• Deer: need 6 to 8 feet of height, or a slanted fence, because they jump. Visible netting works better than nearly invisible wire.
• Raccoons and squirrels: climb — add a top or an electrified strand for serious infestations.

The Fencing, Reviewed

1. Welded Wire Fencing — Best All-Around

What it is: Galvanized steel mesh in rolls, typically 2 x 4 inch or 1 x 2 inch openings, from brands like YARDGARD. The 1-inch-mesh versions stop rabbits; 2-inch mesh stops larger animals and allows easier planting access.

• Pros: long-lasting; rigid enough to stand without full framing; effective against most medium pests; easy to attach to posts.
• Cons: small mesh costs more per foot; needs solid posts and ground anchoring against diggers.

2. 1/2-Inch Hardware Cloth — Best for Burrowers and Chewers

What it is: A tightly woven, small-mesh galvanized wire (Fencer Wire is a well-known brand) that nothing small can squeeze through or chew through. It is the standard material for building critter-proof raised-bed cages.

• Pros: near-impenetrable to rodents, snakes, and small diggers; rigid; pairs perfectly with raised-bed frames.
• Cons: pricier and heavier than other meshes; overkill for deer and large pests alone.

3. Deer Fencing / Tall Netting — Best for Deer Pressure

What it is: Tall, visible netting — often polypropylene or heavy-gauge plastic mesh 6 to 8 feet tall — designed specifically to block deer. VEVOR and similar brands sell affordable rolls that install quickly on posts.

• Pros: tall enough to stop jumping deer; light and easy to install; far cheaper than woven-wire deer fence.
• Cons: less durable than metal; can sag; does nothing for rabbits — pair with a lower fine mesh.

4. Garden Netting / Poultry Netting — Best Budget

What it is: Lightweight plastic or light-gauge metal netting for temporary, seasonal protection — useful around young beds and newly planted rows.

• Pros: very cheap; quick to install and remove; fine-mesh plastic versions deter birds and small pests.
• Cons: short-lived; flimsy against determined animals; needs replacement most seasons.

View garden fencing options and current prices on Amazon

Step-by-Step: Building a Critter-Proof Garden Fence

1. Identify your pest

Walk the garden at dawn and dusk, and look for tracks, droppings, and damage patterns. The fence you build depends entirely on what is eating: height for deer, buried base for diggers, small mesh for chewers.

2. Choose height and mesh by pest

Rabbits: 30 to 36 inches tall, 1-inch mesh. Groundhogs: same mesh, with 12 inches buried or laid flat. Deer: 6 to 8 feet, visible netting. Raccoons: add a top or an angled overhang.

3. Anchor the bottom

This is where fences fail. Either bury the bottom edge 6 to 12 inches deep, or lay 12 to 18 inches of mesh flat on the ground pointing outward and pin it down — diggers hit the flat mesh and give up.

4. Set sturdy posts

Metal T-posts every 6 to 10 feet, with corner posts braced, keep mesh taut and gates square. Stretch the wire tight and fasten with fence ties, not staples that pull loose.

5. Build a gate that actually closes

A sagging, gapped gate undoes the whole fence. Use a solid frame, tight hinges, and a self-closing latch — owners of critter-proof gardens agree the gate is the weak point.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Too-short fencing. A 3-foot fence stops rabbits but is a dinner invitation for deer.
• Gaps at the bottom. Rabbits squeeze under a fence that “looks” closed; the base must meet the soil.
• Large mesh. 2 x 4 inch mesh stops deer but lets rabbits stroll through.
• One fence for everything. Most gardens need a layered approach: tall deer netting over fine lower mesh.

FAQ

How tall should a garden fence be to keep out rabbits?

30 to 36 inches is the standard for rabbits, with the mesh buried or pinned at the base. Rabbits jump poorly but squeeze and dig relentlessly, so the bottom seal matters more than the top height.

What is the best fence to keep deer out of a garden?

Anything 6 to 8 feet tall that deer can see. Woven-wire deer fence is the most durable; tall plastic netting is the budget option. A double fence or slanted design also defeats jumpers. Deer rarely test a well-installed tall fence.

Do I need to bury garden fence wire?

If groundhogs, voles, or rabbits are your problem, yes — bury the bottom 6 to 12 inches or lay it flat outward and anchor it. Fences that end at the soil surface are a doorway for every digging pest.

How tall should a fence be for a vegetable garden?

For a general garden with rabbits and deer pressure, plan 6 to 8 feet total: a tall deer layer above a 3-foot fine-mesh lower section. If you only have rabbits and small pests, 3 feet of 1-inch welded wire, properly anchored, is plenty.

Bottom Line

Critter-proofing is about matching the fence to the pest: 1-inch welded wire anchored at the base for rabbits, 1/2-inch hardware cloth for diggers and chewers, and 6 to 8 feet of visible netting for deer. Anchor the bottom, brace the corners, and build a gate that closes — that is 90% of the job. A well-built fence pays for itself the first season it protects a single crop, and it lets you garden with peace of mind instead of resentment.

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